CHAPTER XXII.

ENCAMP AT LAKATAKOORA WITHOUT THE CARAVAN—DESCRIPTION OF VILLAGE—BASé LADIES VISIT ME ERE I GET OUT OF BED—THEY RECEIVE PRESENTS AND ARE VERY AMUSING—ENORMOUS NUMBERS OF DOVES AND SAND-GROUSE—ABOOSALAL TO SOGODA—BOA-CONSTRICTOR KILLED—AN UNPLEASANT JOURNEY, WE ALL GET SEPARATED—ARRIVE AT HEIKOTA AGAIN.

March 23rd.—Leaving Khor-Maiatah at 8.45 a.m., we had an exceptionally unpleasant day of it. We had seen the last of that fine river, the Tacazze; now if water was wanted it could only be obtained by digging a few feet in the sandy river-beds. We travelled over mountains, plains, valleys, river-beds, and nearly all day through a forest of those horrid mimosas, finally arriving at Lakatakoora, in the Basé country, at 7 p.m., without the caravan. At about 11 p.m. Cheriff, with the canteen, Ali the cook, and a few only of the camels arrived.

[280]

As we had not tasted food since about 1 p.m., Cheriff’s canteen was soon surrounded by us, and the contents of it cleared out in a very short time. Our dinner (which was a scanty one this time) did not appear until 12.30 a.m. Whilst this was being prepared by Ali we fired off rifles, burnt blue lights, and lighted a beacon fire for Suleiman with the hamlah to see where we were; but all to no purpose—they had lost their way. The moon retired for the night, and so many trees had to cut be down to enable them to come on, that at last they gave up the idea of attempting to find us, so slept out.

We also had rather a hard time of it. There was no choice of a camping-ground—there was but one. This was a large open space devoid of vegetation, but covered with a thick layer of impalpable dust, about an inch or so in thickness, infested with white ants. Fortunately our tents and bedding arrived. I did not wait for my tent to be pitched, but placed my bedding on the canvas covering of my tent on the ground, and there I managed to get through the night in a rather unsatisfactory manner. The other members of the party elected to remain up until their tents were pitched.

March 24th.—I passed a somewhat uncomfortable night amongst the white ants, lulled to sleep by the music of hy?nas, some of whom seem to[281] have been intensely amused at our situation, if one may judge from the bursts of merriment issuing from their camp, as they were evidently excited by uncontrollable fits of laughter, making the woods in the immediate neighbourhood resound by the exercise of their risible faculties.

I awoke about 6.30 a.m., but did not arise until 7. Quite near to our camp I observed on a precipitous mountain side enormous basalt rocks, some single rocks as big as a good-sized house. This was the village of Lakatakoora; and amongst these rocks, concealed from view, lived some Basé. I had not been awake long ere many of the Basé ladies, covered with beads, their eyelids and lips stained with kohl, rings in their noses and ears, and a strip of cloth around their waists, came and shook hands with me, murmuring “Mida” (good-day). Both men and women came in such increasing numbers that I decided to get up, and had to perform my toilet in their presence. They watched the whole performance with evident interest. Such a contrivance as a tooth-brush and tooth-powder elicited expressions of wonder and admiration, but a hair-brush and comb pleased them still more. Water was scarce. I therefore had to wash à la Turk. Mahoom stood by me with a salmon tin full of water, pouring out little driblets[282] of water into my hands, finally douching my head with the remaining drop, about two ounces.

Our guide had been sent off at 6 a.m. in search of the lost portion of the caravan. He found it, and piloted it into our camp at 8.30 a.m. The Basé were very friendly and obliging in the way of water, for they brought us this invaluable liquid in very beautifully worked baskets, so closely woven that not a drop escaped, slung on the shoulder, like a pair of scales. They also brought us several gourds of wild honey, which we bought. Many beads and small looking-glasses were given to the ladies, who appeared highly delighted and amused when they saw their own faces reflected from a looking-glass for the first time in their lives. They crowded round the fortunate recipient of one of these reflectors, peeping over one another’s shoulders, giggling and laughing at their own reflection in a most amusing manner.

All being packed up by 10 a.m., we moved off a short distance, halting at Aboosalal at 12.30 p.m. on the sandy bed of a khor, surrounded on either side by lofty, precipitous rocks, along which scampered hundreds of enormous baboons and monkeys. Both men and camels seemed completely knocked up. A little way from camp was a little pool of water in this khor; and in the neighbourhood,[283] without exaggeration, were thousands upon thousands of doves and sand-grouse. I took my gun down there in the evening when they came to drink, and stationed myself behind a huge rock. In less than half-an-hour I bagged about 15 brace of sand-grouse and five brace of doves.

The day before we arrived here the natives had killed an elephant. They and the vultures had picked his bones pretty clean, as nothing but his skeleton remained when I saw it. His tusks, of course, had been taken away. Later on they were offered to me by a Sheik’s son; but as they were damaged, small, and the price excessive, I was not a purchaser.

March 25.—Made a long march from Aboosalal to Sogoda, where water could be found. We started soon after 8 a.m., and long before we reached our destination darkness came on. This was a most unpleasant journey through prickly trees, again tearing our patched-up clothes and helmets. In one place we all got separated, each one selecting the way he thought best. I lost my way in a forest of kittar and mimosa bushes. I was obliged to dismount my camel, and presently got in such a fix that I could scarcely move either backwards or forwards. Noises became indistinct, and finally, I could not hear a sound. Others were, apparently,[284] in the same position as myself, for shots and revolvers resounded on all sides. Eventually we reached the camping ground in detachments at 8, 9, and 10 o’clock, dining at 11 p.m., bed at 12.30. In the evening, before dark, we came across the trail of a boa-constrictor, followed it up, and successfully despatched the reptile, which measured 12 feet in length. The next day we pitched our tents at Fahncoub, on very good ground, surrounded by fine trees. Sogoda was a horrid place, the ground being covered with fine dust.

March 26th.—Starting from Fahncoub at 8.30 a.m., we once more reached Heikota at 11.30, having travelled a distance of 10 miles only. We found Herr Schumann, the animal collector, had gone, calling at Kassala, and taking all the animals with him to Souakin. I take the opportunity of sending a letter on to Kassala by Alki, who has been a very good trustworthy fellow, but who is now leaving us, as he has a bad whitlow.