CHAPTER XXIII.

AN ABYSSINIAN IMPROVISATORE AND HIS LITTLE SLAVE—PREPARE FOR A MARCH TO MASSAWA—A STRANGE BASé BREAKFAST—PATIENTS—ARRIVE AT TOODLOAK—BENI-AMIRS ENCAMPED ON THE GASH—LIONS AND LEOPARDS ARE SHOT—OUR MONKEYS IN CAMP—BABOON MODE OF ATTACKING LEOPARDS—CRAFTY BABOONS—LIONS ABOUND—HY?NA METHOD OF ATTACKING A LION—HY?NA INTERVIEWS MR. COLVIN—ARRIVAL AT AMADEB—DEPARTURE FROM AMADEB—BAREAS ATTEMPT AN ATTACK ON THE CARAVAN—BENI-AMIRS WATERING THEIR FLOCKS AND HERDS—WE MEET WITH A YOUNG ELEPHANT—LEOPARD AND HY?NA SHOT AT KHOR-BARAKER.

March 27th.—A great part of the morning was occupied with sorting out the heads of antelopes, buffalos, &c. I was particularly engaged in attending to about 50 patients in the morning, and perhaps 20 or so in the evening. Many of them had come from long distances to see the “Hakeem.”

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In the afternoon a little Abyssinian boy, about 12 years of age (an improvisatore), made his appearance, accompanied by his slave (a small black boy), perhaps seven or eight years of age, carrying a rude native instrument with three or four strings on it, something like a banjo. He favoured us with a song, in which the word “Ingelese, Ingelese” occurred very frequently. The interpretation of the whole song I do not know, but it referred principally to the prowess of the English in the Abyssinian war. On being asked if he would sell this instrument, he replied—

“No, I cannot do that; it is my father and my mother.”

The young rascal had saved up all his money and bought the little black boy as his slave. He was delighted on seeing a scrap-book and a small musical box. These Mr. James presented him with, also a dollar, which the youngster handed over to his slave with quite the air of a superior.

March 28th.—To-morrow we hope to be on the march once more. To-day we are much engaged in securing fresh camels and camel-men for the march to Massawa. I was employed for fully two hours in the morning, and again in the evening, in relieving the several necessities and tribulations of my Arab friends.

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March 29th.—Physic again greedily sought for by Hamrans, Beni-Amirs, Shukeriyahs, and Hadendowahs. I was engaged in dispensing from breakfast time until near luncheon time, and again all the evening until dark. If we do not move away from Heikota the medicine chest will soon be empty, for these people seem to positively enjoy mixtures and pills. In the evening, after dinner, all our late camel-men and horse-boys were paid off, each one receiving five dollars backsheesh, and a good knife and a razor, which are much prized. I have already spoken of the wonderful digestive powers of the Basé people, but they exceeded my wildest expectations, for on the 26th a circumstance occurred whilst we were on the march that convinced me they could digest anything from a boot to a pair of trousers, even with a man inside of them. Had anyone recounted the anecdote to me I daresay I might have been somewhat incredulous, and I cannot blame anyone, who does not know me, for being the same. However, they can please themselves as to whether they believe what I am going to state or not. I can vouch for the fact as I saw it myself.

In front of my camel, whilst on the march, were two Basé. One of them found that a portion of his sandal (made of buffalo hide) had worn away and[288] came off; he was a careful Basé and wasted nothing. Feeling rather hungry, the owner of the sandal pounded the bit of seceding sandal between two pieces of stone, and having done so began to masticate it. The other Basé man, who had secured a bit of the toothsome morsel, evidently thought this a superfluous proceeding on the part of his comrade, so incontinently proceeded to masticate it without this preliminary precaution. Their teeth certainly are good, even beautiful, and would be envied by any drawing-room belle, and I am sure their digestive powers would also be envied by any individual living—no need of Richardson’s Peptacolos here. I would recommend the party who wrote about “The Stomach and Its Trials” to peruse the above instructive anecdote.

March 30th.—This morning, after breakfast, my tent was surrounded again with the patients, who had arrived from all parts, far and near, on camels, on donkeys, and on foot. Amongst them was one old man who, after the approved native fashion, squatted on his haunches, holding out a little squeaking chicken, about a week or two old, at arm’s length, calling out “Hakeem howaga” (doctor, sir). This he continued at intervals for about a quarter of an hour, until I had got rid of many patients. What he intended this diminutive[289] chicken for, unless as a present, I was at a loss to understand; but when, at last, his turn came, I soon discovered through Mahoom why the old man was so importunate. Yesterday he came complaining of his eyes. I then told him he must procure a small bottle for some lotion. “And now,” said Mahoom, laughing till he could hardly stand, “he bring you dis little chicken.” What he thought I was going to do with the chicken I don’t know, unless he expected me to smash it up, and with it make a lotion for his eyes. On my previous visit I gouged out some diseased bone from a boy’s foot, straightened the leg of another boy who had suffered from a contracted knee, and so on. My fame spread; hence the influx of patients suffering from all kinds of diseases, curable and incurable. At 11.30 a.m. we left Heikota, reaching Toodloak at 7 p.m., where we encamped on very dusty ground.

March 31st.—Here we found a very large village of Beni-Amirs encamped on the Gash, who may be likened to locusts, as they remained at Heikota until the animals had eaten up everything there; then they moved away to pastures new. Toodloak is quite a lion neighbourhood. An immense zareeba had been constructed on the river-bed in a large circle. Within this was an inner circle formed by the huts of the tribe, and into that inner circle[290] many hundreds of camels, sheep, cattle, and goats are every night driven in for protection from the wild beasts; yet, notwithstanding this, a lion will sometimes leap the barrier and bound off with, a sheep or a goat. Temp. 100° F. in the shade. The nights are now much warmer than they were three weeks ago.

April 1st.—Last night two lions, a lioness, and two leopards were shot, and all secured except one lion. We saw no less than seven or eight last night. The lion was a very fine fellow, measuring nine feet two inches from nose to tip of his tail. Sali cut a bit of the lion’s liver, to make him brave, as he said—a quite unnecessary proceeding, for he once was plucky enough to enter the jungle in search of a wounded lion, and that is what few would care to do.

April 2nd.—Lions are plentiful here. Last night they made a great noise round the camp, probably attracted thither by the sheep and goats. The Arabs had to mount guard over these, walking round in couples with spears and shield, and shouting to keep them away. Last night the party went out in couples at considerable distances apart. Each couple was ensconced in a small zareeba, in front of which was a goat or sheep, tethered to a stake driven in the ground, to tempt a lion. Opposite[291] Mr. Colvin’s zareeba, whilst he was patiently waiting inside for a lion to make his appearance, he had the mortification to see one leap on to his sheep, seize him, and bound off again with the sheep, pegs and rope ere he could get a fair shot at him; he discharged his rifle, but missed his lion. The heat is so great to-day that it is quite uncomfortable to walk across the river-bed in slippers—104° F. in the shade. To-morrow we shall probably start afresh, and pitch our moving tents a day’s march nearer home.

April 3rd.—All astir this morning preparing for the march to Amadeb, where we expect to find letters and newspapers from England. We have some tame monkeys and baboons in camp, which are very amusing and playful. When we are at breakfast some of them come and watch us, thankfully receiving any crumbs of comfort we choose to throw them. Although their movements are quite unfettered, they make no attempt to leave us and join their comrades who have not been civilized. Baboons, which are very large and strong, will sometimes form themselves into a limited liability company for the purpose of attacking a leopard, relieving one another at intervals; then, at last, when they think a favourable opportunity has arrived, all suddenly swoop down on him at once.[292] They will often lay in wait for the goats and sheep going to water, then go and suck them whilst they are drinking; after which refreshing performance these robbers, not liking to return to their mountain fastnesses empty-handed, will take the liberty of borrowing a kid from the flock. Last night, about 10 o’clock, we heard lions near camp. One came pretty close to the horses, causing quite a stampede amongst them; at the same time all the camels got up, showing signs of great uneasiness. Lions are very numerous here, hy?nas few. When hy?nas predominate they will often attack a lion, and in a very systematic way, too. A number will get in front of him, and act as designing persons in England sometimes do. They throw dust in his eyes, then the whole pack will fall upon and make an end of him. At such times both the lion and hy?nas make a great uproar. We heard them one night, and Sali, who is an excellent tracker, told us that hy?nas were then attacking a lion. We hear that Sheik Ahmed, with a number of the Beni-Amirs, have made arrangements with the Basé for a shooting expedition in their country, intending to go as far as Maiambasar, then cross from there to the Settite. They have a curious way of making themselves agreeable out there. To make themselves acceptable, they will take wives from amongst the Basé;[293] then when they leave the country they leave them behind, at the same time presenting them with a piece of cloth, some dhurra, and, perhaps, a few dollars.

April 4th.—Marched about nine hours to-day, encamping in a very mountainous region. Whilst the tents were being pitched, Mr. Colvin picked up a book, went about a hundred yards from camp, and sat down under a tree to read. He had not been there long ere he heard something breathing near him; looked round, and saw a hy?na within a very easy distance. He naturally got up and made tracks for camp, as he had no rifle with him. His unwelcome interviewer followed him pretty closely until he approached the camp. Soon after this, very near to camp, one of them made for Dra, who drew his sword and shouted. George saw him, and at once gave him the contents of his rifle.

April 5th.—Marched from 8 a.m., reaching Amadeb, a garrison town, at 8.30 p.m. We travelled a very mountainous region to-day—in one part, for the distance of a mile or two, over large boulders of marble on the roadway. On arriving at Amadeb, all were soon busy in reading their letters from England. The Bey here treated us with great consideration and kindness, providing us with tea, sugar, milk, biscuits, and cigarettes[294] whilst our tents were being pitched and we were reading our letters. I had almost forgotten to mention one very exciting incident during our journey to-day, and it was this—All our party, except Mr. Colvin and myself, had gone on considerably in advance of the caravan (we were travelling along a dry river-bed, consequently on very open ground), when Suleiman came up in great haste, saying, “Doctor, have you got your rifle ready? The caravan is going to be attacked in the rear;” and off he went to inform the others. Colvin and I soon got our rifles and revolvers in readiness, and trotted back to the rear, where we found our men in a great state of excitement, leaping about, brandishing their spears, and insanely yelling, “Whoop! whoop!” which, of course, was no use, but an inconsiderate way of spending time and ventilating their feelings. Facing them were, perhaps, 80 or 100 Bareas (akin to the Basé), indulging in the same lunatic kind of performance. Our reinforcements arrived, in the shape of George, Anselmia, and the rest of the party. The Bareas, seeing our strength, then vanished like chaff before the wind. This was destined to be our last scare. From the information we could gather, it seems that the Bareas thought our numerous boxes were filled with dollars, and (according to Dra and Girgas)[295] began pointing their spears towards them as if on hostile intentions bent. They retaliated by pointing rifles at them, which had the effect of inciting these fellows into a kind of war-like dance, accompanied by a significant brandishing of spears; and there is very little doubt that blood would have been spilt had we not promptly appeared on the scene.

April 6th.—Amadeb appears to be a tolerably large place. The houses are made of mud bricks baked in the sun, and are thatched. The whole town is surrounded by a mud wall. As we did not start until 3 p.m., I had many patients to attend. At 5 p.m. we encamped on pretty good ground, surrounded by trees, in which were thousands of doves, about 16 brace of which Mr. F. James and I soon knocked over, thus providing luncheon for the next day or two. We found water here.

April 7th.—We marched from 8 a.m. until 8 p.m., a distance of about 30 miles. At noon we passed a place where some thousands of camel, cattle, sheep, and goats were being watered. Of course, at this time of the year, all the river-courses are dry, and the water has to be drawn up from deep wells. The Beni-Amirs, and other neighbouring tribes, are a pastoral people, and owners of enormous herds, on which they wholly subsist. They produce[296] nothing, and seem to require nothing, except a few yards of cotton. Their mode of watering the herds is a very laborious one. On this sandy river-bed I observed about 20 very large but shallow mud-basins, and close to each basin a well. At the top of each well is an Arab, provided with a large antelope skin (dressed), fastened around the sides, and attached to a long rope. This skin he drops into the well, and hauls up, hand-over-hand, full of water, which he tips into the mud-basin until it is full. With such insufficient means, of course, a long time is occupied in filling the basins.

In the afternoon George, who had gone on ahead, came back much excited, saying there was a young elephant in a wood which could be easily shot, adding that if he had had an elephant rifle with him he should have been tempted to let fly. It was fortunate that he had not, for presently we met the owner of this captured elephant, accompanied by a number of natives. They had halted for a short time, and had secured the elephant to a tree by a rope round the neck and leg. He had been captured at Forfar. His tusks were just protruding. Just as I approached him a native ran up, saying, “Batal, batal howaga” (bad, bad, sir). The man was right, for this infant had already wounded five men severely. I, therefore, kept a respectful[297] distance. The country through which we travelled to-day was very mountainous, and here and there big plains covered with bushes; still nothing like so bad as the road before we got to Amadeb.

April 8th.—Marched from 8 a.m. until 1 p.m., encamping at Gargee, situated on Khor-Baraker. We stay here to-night, hoping to secure another lion. Just after dinner we heard jackals barking very much like dogs.